Book Review: The Last Collection | Jeanne Mackin

An American woman becomes entangled in the intense rivalry between iconic fashion designers Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli in this captivating novel from the acclaimed author of The Beautiful American.

Jeanne Mackin’s The Last Collection is historical fiction at it’s finest! Come for the glamour of the Paris fashion scene, stay for the legendary rivalry that pushed two incredible women to great lengths to prove that women can be creative, successful, and powerful. A book to totally lose yourself in!

About the Book

Paris, 1938. Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli are fighting for recognition as the most successful and influential fashion designer in France, and their rivalry is already legendary. They oppose each other at every turn, in both their politics and their designs: Chanel’s are classic, elegant, and practical; Schiaparelli’s bold, experimental, and surreal.

When Lily Sutter, a recently widowed young American teacher, visits her brother, Charlie, in Paris, he insists on buying her a couture dress–a Chanel. Lily, however, prefers a Schiaparelli. Charlie’s beautiful and socially prominent girlfriend soon begins wearing Schiaparelli’s designs as well, and much of Paris follows in her footsteps.

Schiaparelli offers budding artist Lily a job at her store, and Lily finds herself increasingly involved with Schiaparelli and Chanel’s personal war. Their fierce competition reaches new and dangerous heights as the Nazis and the looming threat of World War II bear down on Paris.

Reflection

I love historical fiction that creates a fictional story around real people and events. The Last Collection tells the story of icons Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli from the perspective of an American woman, Lily. Broken into three parts, the book uses vivid imagery throughout to accentuate the turmoil going on among the characters.

Chanel is a French fashion designer who promoted classic, sporty designs in neutral colors that freed women from the more restrictive corseted styles that had defined the last century. Meanwhile Schiaparelli came from a wealthy Italian family and promoted bright, colorful, and patterned designs that inspired more artistic, whimsical fashion with less focus on craftsmanship and structure. Both women were iconic and remain so to this day, though Chanel has more lasting notoriety due to the longevity of her brand.

The fictional American artist and widow Lily becomes embedded in the circles of both Chanel and Schiaparelli as their rivalry heats up. Lily ‘s character is important to the telling of the story, as she remains a more objective voice between the two powerful personalities, and often becomes a pawn in their feud. Lily views the world through creative expression, often associating colors with the essence of the events around her. I’ve always been drawn to fashion as art, and this story really showcased two iconic designers in that light.

And of course, there is the pre-WWII tensions in Paris unfolding at the same time as the story. I liked learning more about how Chanel and Schiaparelli were influenced by and agents of the period of time between the two wars. The rivalry between two women who may have different views on Fashion and politics, but are similar in their ambitions was truly a joy to read. The gossip, the secrets, the parties, and the fashion do not disappoint! A good mix of politics and drama, I loved this story!

Thank you to Berkley Publishing for my copy. Opinions are my own.